Bespoke is a vastly overused and unspecific term.
It's a word most closely associated with tailoring, but what does it mean? Its predecessor, “bespeak”, acquired its meaning in the 16th century, “to order or arrange in advance”, and it was this definition that became associated with tailoring.
The more pertinent question is what it has meant to West End tailoring over its history. Each house has its own distinct house style, and multiple cutters working to produce that style consistently. So how is that done, and what aspects can be changed within that system?
Firstly I should say that this is not a commentary on how any house currently operates, as I cannot attest to how others work.
In the post War era, in which my mentor Arthur Catchpole worked, every house had a strict house style, from construction to fit, to aesthetic detailing, even lapel shape. One chose a tailoring house for the cut for which they were renowned. The outcome of one's garment was to a great extent predefined.
In order to make the work consistent with multiple cutters and over long periods of time it was usual to use house block patterns. Block patterns are the surest way of ensuring a garment’s fundamental architecture remains consistent regardless of invidual cutters. Within this system, only the cloth, fit and functional detailing - for example single- or double-breasted, brace top or straight top trousers - are aspects that can be easily adjusted to the individual client.
The making of our bespoke garments has followed a different path. We do not have a block pattern. Instead, we create garments for customers through collaboration. The garment is not predefined but created with the customer through the cutting, fitting and making.
Fundamental to this is the recognition that every person is unique, in physique and personality, and the sense of self that a garment must bring out is also unique. The garment must fulfil these demands, and also be suitable for when and for what purpose it will be worn. All these considerations inform the fit, cut, construction, and styling.
This method is not for everyone, and there is a measure of risk in the process. The risk is not in the outcome - no garment is ever released unless fit for purpose. The risk is that with so many variables at play, it takes more fitting, patience, and faith in the process. Striving for excellence is always a risk.